In this DIY tutorial, I show you how to make a DIY epoxy resin river table using live edge wood. Also, learn various tips and techniques.
In fact, I use these epoxy river table pro tips and woodworking techniques on custom furniture for my clients.
Even if you don't need an epoxy resin river table, the tips I cover in this DIY tutorial can be used for other epoxy or woodworking projects.
Here are some jump links to help you find the information you need quickly:
Video Tutorial
Tools and Material
Unique Epoxy River Table Features
Step-by-Step Guide
Video Tutorial: DIY Epoxy Resin River Table
There are several things which are difficult to fully explain with words and images, so be sure to check out the video tutorial below!
Tools and Material
So, let's dive right in with a full DIY video tutorial and the tools I used.
Table Top Epoxy Resin
Resin Glow Powder
Chisels
Fire Glass
HairPin Table Legs
UV Light Strip
Micro Butane Torch
Tack Cloth
Mixing Stir Sticks
CA Glue
Hot Glue Gun
Shellac
Heat Gun
Silicone Caulk
Wax
Gloves XL
Often times, I experiment with many different products and tools while working with epoxy resin and wood.
For your convenience, I’ve compiled a complete list of the best epoxy resin for river table projects.
Epoxy Wood Glow in the Dark Table Features
So, three characteristics make this DIY epoxy resin river table unique:
- It glows in the dark.
- Features embedded objects in epoxy resin.
- Made with live edge sinker cypress wood.
For starters, it contains blue resin glow powder to make the resin river glow in the dark with no lights.
Secondly, I embedded blue fire glass in the epoxy resin to add some cool effects.


Lastly, the sinker cypress live edge wood makes this river table unique.
Sinker Cypress is a rare, high quality and beautiful wood.
The unique grain patterns, color variations, durability, and history make sinker cypress wood tables popular among woodworkers and consumers.

I love working with live edge sinker cypress wood to build dining room tables, desks, entryway tables.
In fact, this DIY epoxy table works perfectly as a coffee table, desk, or living room accent table.
Unfortunately, the price of sinker cypress prevents me from using this wood more often.

Step-by-Step Instructions
I created a set of free downloadable DIY plans for this project and it includes:
- 82 page PDF
- Tool List
- Material List
- Resin Calculator
- Woodworking Tips & Techniques
- Full Companion Video of Build
1 - Clean Live Edge Wood
The piece of live edge sinker cypress I used in this resin river table project was 48" long and roughly 20" wide.
The live edge made exact size difficult to determine.
As a first step, I removed the bark on the live edge of the sinker cypress slab.
The epoxy resin will not adhere properly to loose bark on a live edge.
I peeled away the loose pieces with my old chisel that I recently resharpened.
Next, I used a rubber mallet and chisel to remove the bark I couldn't peel off.
Then, I smoothed the surface as much as I could without damaging the live edge.
Removing the bark with a chisel or other hand tools produces the best results.


2 - Milling Live Edge Wood Slab
I milled the sinker cypress live edge wood slab to get straight sides, a flat surface, and square ends.
Table Saw Jointing Jig
To start, I ripped the wooden board in half with my table saw jointing jig to get straight edges.
Obviously, the live edge on both sides of the wood slab prevented me from using the table saw fence.
First, I located the middle of the board by reading the grain pattern and measuring the front, middle, and back.

Next, I secured the sinker cypress to the jig using the dovetail clamps, raised my table saw blade, and slowly pushed it through.
Then, I verified the sides were straight by putting them against each other.
Essentially, this produces two pieces of live edge slab to make this DIY epoxy river table.



Flat Wood Surface
I ran the sinker cypress through my planer and removed 1/64" with each pass.
Also, my hardwood dealer ran this wood through his planer.
As a result, I did not need to remove too much material to get a flat surface.
Next, I used my orbital sander with 120 grit sandpaper to sand the entire table and remove the loose debris from each live edge.


Square Ends
I secured the straight side of each piece of sinker cypress to my miter saw fence and cut each end to the exact size (40 inches).

3 - Melamine Epoxy Resin Mold
I had a few scraps of melamine left from previous projects.
So, I used this to create the melamine resin mold.
The melamine surface serves as a mold release agent.
First, I used a piece of melamine that was long enough for the sinker cypress.
Next, I layed the live edge wood and traced it with a pencil.

Then, I removed the live edge sinker cypress from the melamine.
Apply vaseline or furniture wax on resin mold to serve as a mold release agent for epoxy.

To seal the resin mold, I placed the 2 pieces of sinker cypress back on the melamine.
Then, I lined them up with the pencil marks to ensure each end was the same length.
Next, I used hot glue to seal each end of the resin table.
I used silicone to seal the bottom of each live edge (length wise) to prevent the epoxy resin from seeping through.



4 - Prepare for Epoxy Leaks
Sometimes, epoxy leaks despite my best effort to prevent it from doing so.
For this project, I decided to make the underside of my table saw outfeed table as a tub to catch leaking epoxy resin.
Obviously, it's not pretty but it works.
The underside of the table simply has 5 12" 2x4 pieces which protrude vertically to hold pieces of various size
Ultimately, this prevents epoxy from leaking on my floor and work area.


5 - Glow in the Dark Powder
I wanted this epoxy resin river table look like the other table for matching/decorative purposes, but I also wanted it to be unique.
So, I decided to add glow powder, or photoluminescence powder, to the base epoxy resin layers.
As a result, the river bottom will glow from the river bottom through the fire glass.
The combination of wood, epoxy glow powder, and fire glass makes for a beautiful epoxy table.
I chose a blue glow powder to make this a blue epoxy river table.
To avoid a potential disaster, I tested the glow powder to verify the color before mixing it with epoxy resin.
The special thing about glow powder is natural light charges it.
I purchased the glow powder from Art N Glow.
Art n Glow included a black light with my purchase.
So, I used this to verify the color of the powder.
The glow powder is charged by UV light, sunlight, or black light.

6 - Choose Epoxy Resin for River Tables
The best epoxy resin for river tables is deep pour epoxy such as Liquid Glass 2.0.
Table Top Epoxy
For this DIY epoxy resin river table, I used ProMarine Table Top Epoxy because I had plenty left over.
However, Pro Marine only allows pours of roughly ¼" thick.
As a result, multiple pours are required which causes 2 issues:
- Prolongs the project b/c multiple pours are required.
- Increases the chances of making a mistake.
Table top epoxy works well for smaller projects such as resin art.
Best Deep Pour Epoxy
For thick epoxy pours, I recommend using SuperClear Liquid Glass Epoxy Resin.
This deep pour epoxy allows up to 4" pours.
Deep epoxy pours save time and reduce the amount of epoxy mixing needed for projects.
This epoxy provides plenty of time before it cures, which is another great advantage..
7 - Mix Epoxy Resin
For the next step, I mixed 24 ounces of epoxy resin (12 ounces of hardener and 12 ounces of resin) per the manufacturer's instructions which can be located on their website.
Ultimately, this epoxy calls for 1 part epoxy to 1 part hardener.
As a quick tip, make sure the epoxy is at room temperature before mixing.
I used a stir stick or paint stick until the epoxy resin turned cloudy white.
It is important to stir the mixture and scrape the sides of the mixing cup.
Do NOT whip while stirring because it causes lots of air bubbles.



Then, I added 2 ounces of blue glow powder.

8 - Measure Epoxy and Glow Powder
First, art n glow recommends 1 part glow powder to 4 parts epoxy resin.
Obviously, they are aggressive with this recommendation.
After all, they want their product to perform well.
And, they like selling more glow powder.
I feel a 1 to 4 ratio is too much for a few reasons:
- Too much glow powder may jeopardize the epoxy resin mixture. I don't have any proof of this, but it just seems logical to me from my experience with epoxy resin.
- Glow powder is not terribly expensive, but it isn't cheap.
- I don't want a bright glow; rather, I prefer a subtle glow.
A 1 to 12 ratio produces a medium glow and a 1 to 6 ratio works for a bright glow.
9 - First Epoxy Resin River Table Pour
First thing, I slowly poured the epoxy resin in the epoxy resin river table.


Next, I removed the bubbles and worked the material with a heat gun.
One important thing, make sure your work area is free of dust/debris.
The heat gun blew material in the epoxy resin.
Obviously, I forgot to wipe the table with a tack cloth before pouring the material.


So, I decided to use my micro butane torch to remove the remaining bubbles.

10 - Second Epoxy Pour
The next day (24 hours later), I mixed another 24 ounces of epoxy resin and 2 ounces of glow powder for the second pour.
This is the same mixture as the first pour and the same process.
However, I didn't use the heat gun this time.




I am comfortable mixing 24 ounces of material in a single mixture due to the size of my container and mixing stick.
11 - Sand Epoxy River Table
Normally, I sand epoxy resin at the end of my project.
However, I sanded at this point in the project.
The sandpaper grits I used was 80 grit, 100 grit, 120 grit, 150 grit, 180 grit and 220 grit.



I knew I needed to sand more at the end, but only finish sanding (220 grit).
Keep in mind, Sinker Cypress is rather soft.
So, it doesn't require sanding with low grits.
Once I sanded through all the grits, I wiped the wood with a damp cloth to raise the grain.
Then, I sanded with 220 grit one more time.
This is the easiest way to get an extra smooth surface.
I used my air compressor to remove the loose debris from the top of the table..


12 - Third Epoxy Resin Pour
The mixture of the third pour was exactly the same as the previous 2 pours.
I waited 24 hours after the second pour, used 24 ounces of epoxy resin, and mixed 2 ounces of glow powder.
Next, I decided to use the heat gun to move the epoxy resin around a bit since this pour was rather thick.
I removed the debris in the previous step so it was safe to use the heat gun. ;)



13 - Test Epoxy Glow Powder
I decided to test the glow powder with a black light while it was curing in the epoxy resin river table.
Additionally, I recommend using this black UV light to test glow powder.
To do this, I simply shined the UV black light directly on the glow powder for roughly 10 seconds.
As I mentioned previously, the light charges the resin table glow powder.




I knew I was done with the glow powder after this simple test.
Moreover, It was not my goal for the glow powder to shine bright.
Ultimately, I wanted more of a gentle glow, which is why I didn’t use the 4:1 ratio as recommended by Art n Glow.
14 - Install LED Lights
I decided to purchase a UV black light in order to manually charge the glow powder during the day.
Since the table would be indoors and in a part of the house with very little sunlight, I knew the glow powder wouldn’t get an adequate charge.
Next, I tested the black lights when they arrived and they worked perfectly.

15 - Embedding Objects in Epoxy Resin River Table
I used fire glass on this table because it will be placed in the same room as the previous LED Epoxy Resin River Table I built a few months back.
The fire glass is rather dusty out of the bag, so I cleaned the glass with water in a bucket.
Next, I put the fire glass in a towel overnight to dry.
I poured the fire glass in the epoxy resin river table and spread it evenly across.
Then, I used a carpenter square to make sure the fire glass sat below the surface.


16 - Fourth Epoxy Resin Pour
The fourth epoxy resin pour was the same as the first 3 pours with two minor differences:
- No Glow Powder
- Mixed 2 24 ounce batches instead of one.
First, I mixed both 24 ounce batches in separate containers.
Next, I poured the first 24 ounces and removed the bubbles with my mini butane torch.
Then, I immediately poured the last 24 ounces and made sure I got the epoxy resin level with the top of each piece of wood.
I removed the bubbles in the same manner as the first 24 ounces.


Finally, I let the epoxy resin cure for 48 hours.
Afterwards, I turned off the lights and I was surprised at how bright the river table glowed in the dark.

17 - Remove Epoxy River Table Mold
I really created more work for myself on my previous sinker cypress LED table.
Ultimately, a ton of epoxy resin leaked between the wood and melamine.
Not only did it waste epoxy resin, but I also made it more difficult to remove the melamine.
So, I implemented a few improved techniques on this table.
- First, I sealed the bottom of the wood with silicon caulk.
- Second, I sealed the both ends of the table with hot glue.
In short, I sealed this epoxy resin river table as best as I could and It was SO WORTH IT.

The melamine removed VERY easily.
Also, I used a rubber mallet and my utility pry bar.
There was virtually no epoxy resin to scrape from the underside of the table.
I used my chisel to remove the excess silicon and hot glue from the underside of the epoxy river table.



18 - Sand Resin Table Underside
First, I sanded the underside of the table with 80 grit, 120 grit, and 220 grit.
Next, I used my air compressor to remove the remaining debris.


19 - Square River Table
Although I squared the ends of the table in a previous step, I did it again.
Why?
Because I needed the live edge river table to be 2 inches shorter in length. ;)
I measured 1” from each with my combination square and marked a straight line with a ruler.
Next, I used my straight edge and circular saw to square each end.




20 - Epoxy UV LED Light to
The UV black lights are meant to be attached with the lights facing down.
However, I need the lights to face up (towards the table) in order to charge the glow powder for the epoxy resin river table.
First, I used CA glue to attach the UV black lights to the underside of the river.
The epoxy resin is cloudy, so the marks the CA glue made were not visible.
I had enough length in the string to make 3 wraps.
One wrap on the outside, back on the other side, and last one in the middle.

Next, I turned off the lights in my workshop to show the look of the epoxy river table with the UV Black Lights On.
Then, I turned the UV Black Lights off and the glow powder shined perfectly through the fire glass.
At least in my opinion it was perfect. :)


21 - Best Epoxy River Table Finish
Obviously, there are many ways to finish an epoxy resin river table top.
In fact, it's downright confusing especially for DIY weekend warriors.
So, I decided to write an article on my favorite epoxy wood table top finishes.

21 - Install Epoxy River Table Bottom (Table Legs)
Finally, it was time to attach the table legs to the epoxy resin river table.
Also, I used the same hairpin legs as I did on my previous table in order for them to match.
Before I was able to attach the legs, I had to remove a lot of rust from them.
I used Boeshield Rust Remover.
Additionally, I use this rust remover for many of my tools.

Next, I attached them to the bottom of the live edge river table by marking pilot holes, drilling pilot holes, and attaching screws.



My dog (Belle) was hanging out in my shop with me and she doesn't like the table.
Additionally, she kept growling and scooting (quick run with her butt down) away from the table.


22 - Glow in the Dark Epoxy Table
Here are 3 pictures of the resin table in different modes.
In the first picture, the UV black LED lights are on.
As I mentioned, the UV black LED lights charge the glow in the dark table.

Furthermore, the picture below shows the glow in the dark epoxy table glowing with the UV lights off.

Also, the glow in the dark table fades over a period of time depending on the amount of charge and the light source.
For example, natural sunlight charges the photoluminescent powder better than artificial UV black lights.

Conclusion
I'm really happy with the way this epoxy resin river table turned out.
Even though it looks very similar to my other sinker cypress table, it stands out in a unique ways.
'I hope you learned how to make an epoxy resin river table.
- Live Edge Outdoor Epoxy Table
- Epoxy River Rock Table
- Seashell Epoxy Table
- DIY Walnut Epoxy Dining Table
How much epoxy resin do I need for a river table?
The amount of resin needed for a river table can be determined by using the following formula: Quarts Needed = Volume(Cubic Inches)*0.017316.
What type of epoxy resin is used for river tables?
Deep pour epoxy resin performs best for river tables. It can be poured up to 4" thick which reduces the number of epoxy pours to make a river table.
How much does it cost to make an epoxy river table?
The cost to make an epoxy river table can range from $250 to $5,000 depending on factors such as size, the amount of epoxy needed, and species of wood.
How thick should an epoxy river table be?
A river table should be at least 1.5 inches thick.





Daniel says
This is such an amazing diy project idea and I love it so much I’m going to make one for my brother t o give him and his soon to be wife at there wedding in October. My only real question is what is the thicness of the wood used? Everything else is super helpful and amazing help. I’ve already down loaded and printed the pdf just need to know the thicness of wood recommendation
Allison says
Did you actually do this?! I would love to see it!
Frank Meyer says
Will it hold up for a picnic table top
Brian I says
I’m using Pro Marine Resin as well and the instruction say not to pour more than 1/8 of an inch at a time but that would take far too many pours I would think when you have a two inch depth. Look like you were pouring about 1/2 inch at a time or around that. Did you run into to any problem with cracking or anything else? Thanks!
Ben says
I had the exact same question...even tried chatting with the company's online people but all they did was cut and paste the recommendation for pouring no more than 1/8". In looking at this and other projects of his, I think its safe to assume he's pouring more than 1/8" at a time.
MICHELLE K SMITH says
Don't poor when it is too warm. I did a bar top outside and it was in the 90's which made it set really fast and it ended up cracking. Had to wait a few days to cool down, sand, and do another pour. The cracks are not that visible after the next pour but a few little ones are.
Carol cole says
Absolutely beautiful. You are so smart in making something like this. You could sell them for a lot of money. It is so beautiful. I can't believe I saw this and Im seeing it for the first time. It is so beautiful.
Muna says
Hey! So.. I'm not really handy with tools or making things so I was wondering if you would ever sell one of these and if you are how much? By the way great stuff, love your channel :).
K perl says
Which kinds of heat treatment needed to make a resine table
Devin B says
Would the UV light work if it was placed first in the ‘river’ and then epoxy coats poured on top of it, assuming the power supply was left accessible outside of the river? I’m looking to do something similar to finish the top of a half wall that I have framed in my basement between the support beams. Due to the support beams, I need to attach my live edge to each side of the framing and pour my river between them, but will be using Durock that I’ve properly sealed as the base for the river. I wouldn’t be able to shine the UV light through the Durock, so I was hoping to embed it underneath the epoxy. I can provide pictures to better illustrate. Also, what is the thickness of the slab that you used? Trying to gauge how much epoxy I should order. Thank You!!
Jason P says
I just purchased the plans for this table, and i want to do it but without the fire glass. I don't want to use clear epoxy in that case and I can't find very much on dyeing epoxy. If you could provide some information on dyeing epoxy that would be great. Thanks.
Mitchell Hogrefe says
Would it be possible to use a band-saw to create a "winding river" rather than the straight one shown? I understand this may make it more difficult to keep the tabletop square; however you could always re-square after all epoxy is dried, correct? Thanks.
Matt says
Great project, I’m using this guide for my own kitchen table top. My only question is the strength of the joint. I didn’t notice any bracing under the table, wouldn’t the joint between the resin and wood crack with vertical pressure? Or to rephrase that, how strong would the joint be?
Jason says
Hi,
Great work! Thanks for sharing.
I’m wondering about the stability of the resin. You have no cross pieces on the underside. The resin is strong enough to hold weight in the center? (I do mean a person...but plates? Books? A heavy package?)
Just wondering if a cross piece would be more reliable.
Amanda says
Hi, do you use a specific temperature on your heat gun? Or what temp is recommended for getting out the bubbles? Lower or higher heat?
michael proctor says
what was the cost for materials?
Amanda says
with the epoxy resin does it scratch easily?
Jason Brumwell says
Just wanted to check about your pouring/curing times. Reading the other comments it sounded like you would pour 1/2”, remove the bubbles, then immediately pour another 1/2”? Is that correct or do you cure each layer for a day like it says in the step-by-step instructions? I had read that you wanted the first layer to still be tacky when applying the next layer but I was just curious on how long to let it cure. We’re attempting a bar top like this but our wood is 2.5” thick and we were just looking for suggestions! We’re also thinking about making it an “L” shaped bar and was wondering if you suggested making it two sections or pouring it as one big one. The two fronts of the L will both be 8’ Long. Awesome table, can’t wait to give this a shot our selves! Thanks so much!
Jeff Ludwig says
First off Beautiful Table. I am currently in the process of making one of these as a dining table. My question is would it be fine to use the same resin as a full top coat/flood coat or would you suggest a different resin i.e. stone cold resin? I have 2 kids and I know sooner or later if I leave it without a top resin coat my wood is gonna be damaged. I'm making mine out of black walnut which isn't to cheap of a wood lol. Thanks in advance.
Joe White says
Where do you purchase your materials epoxy,resin,mixing bowls, glow powder all the materials needed. you do great work i am retired and need to be doing something to keep me busy Thank you joe white
Dean says
How heavy is this table?
Barry Haggerty says
That was a great lesson for building the table. I am just reading and learning how to build the river run tables. What do you consider too hot? I am living in Honduras and it stays around 70 - 95 degrees year long. My work shop is outside and open on all sides. Can you cover the table between pours to protect it so dust doesn’t adhere to the epoxy. Again that you for your information and guidance.
cheryl says
Hello, I have a piece of wood that we used as a guest log at our wedding. All of our guests signed it with sharpie. Do you think I could coat the wood with resin or will it blurr the sharpie?. the wood is starting to crack and I would like to keep it together. also can I keep the bark on?
Tyler says
Hey, how many 10lb bags of fire glass did you need for this project?
Brian says
For an outdoor table or any furniture with epoxy, once cured is freezing a concern? Also, how well does it hold up over the long haul to sun? Would it be a good idea to stain the piece, then epoxy?
April Smith says
Hi Jeremy,
Quick question beautiful job I want to try a table similar to this I’ve been doing resin art for about a year and actually have most these materials and want to try new things. My question is what is the material you used for the form and center that you peeled off?
Thanks for sharing !
April
Justin says
Just curious. What happens if you do the whole thickness in one pour?
Can you see the layers you poured on the ends or is the finish product seamless?
Wendy Ryans says
Would you mind telling me how to dye the resin?
Gavin Compton says
Hi there this table is fantastic. I wanted to get your opinion on temperature for the pours. I live in Colorado and its a very dry climate. We have days where it gets to mid 60s right now but the nights will get down into the low 20s. Is this too cold to pour the epoxy so it cures properly? I am making an office desk for me new office and want to make sure this gets done properly. I would appreciate the insight. Thanks
Saymon Stewart says
Hi there,
I need the best epoxy resin for a wood tabletop so I've read a lot of stuff. And now I think Pro Marine and East Coast would be great options. Many resources say these epoxies are the best (this link https://woodimprove.com/best-epoxy-resins-for-wood/ for example). What would you say about that? Which option should I choose for my oak table top?
Ray says
How long is the table ?? How much Renaissance did you use ?
Amanda says
Fantastic table, and thank you for your thorough tutorial! I'm looking forward to trying my first project soon :)
FindSaw says
Wow, I have the chose the same wood design for making my cupboards! So it was instantly attractive to me. But as I read more of the DIY project, it was so interesting to see the images. It is not the tools but your creativity, of how you applied the basic tools to make such a creative piece of art. Thanks for sharing!
Leo Zhou says
It's really a fantastic project. It would be better if you can post all kinds of tools you used to make this dreaming table come true!
Andy says
Jeremy,
Fantastic project. I’m looking forward to making a dining table about 72”x32”. Love grainy type of wood like acacia. What would you recommend from a thickness perspective? I’m also considering using Odies oil products to finish the top. Do you always top coat your projects with shellac across everything?
Thanks for the inspiration!
Unaise says
Hey..i just want to study this...give me tips and tutorials...also the materials used
Max says
Do you need to adding bracing to this or does the resin bond well enough to hold the table together?
Lisa says
Your work is beautiful. I am wanting to build an 7'x3' river dining table with river rocks I collected from the river near my house in the "river" part of the table. The wood I have is about 14 inches wide for each side, 2" thick pine.
So I'm planning about a foot of "river" filled with rocks.
How much epoxy do you think I would need to do something like this? There is no place near me to purchase the epoxy, so I will have to order it online, and I want to make sure I buy enough.
Also, would you advise doing several pours of epoxy before I add the rocks, like you did with the fire glass?
This link is to give a better idea of what I want to do.
Thank you so much for your advice! Your page has been a wonderful resource to figure out how to do what I'd imagined in my head.
https://images.app.goo.gl/KvTfnng8ZazdACWc9
Lisa says
Thank you so much for the advice!
Lisa says
So hopefully I am doing the math correctly, but for a table that is 84 inches wide, 1 1/2 inches thick, and a "river" area approximately 12 inches, subtracting 15% for the rocks, I'll need around 6-7 gallons of epoxy?
I'm planning to order from Amazon, so my next question is, will I need to order 6 or 7 of these, or only 3, or 4?
It's a little confusing, because I'm unsure if the 2 bottles mixed together make 2 gallons, or just 1 gallon.
Crystal Clear Bar Table Top Epoxy Resin Coating for Wood Tabletop - 1 Gallon Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYK2NAG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_f5b-CbZD0K3YE
airbnb management sydney says
So many great and useful tips! I don’t even know where to start! Thanks anyway.
Peter Boesch says
Thanks for the very detailed steps for building a river table. I have a work shop and I have been wanting to do this but i did not know where to start. I appreciate your tips on what not to do. What i would like to know... when attaching melamine to the bottom and side i get you hot glue it to the table... however when using silicone do you silicone seal on the outside or along the inside where eventually your resin will be poured? I didn't quite catch that. Thank you for the insight.
Paul Sc says
Does the epoxy really heat up when curing? I am looking to make a display using keyboard keys, but I have read that this much epoxy when drying gets really hot, almost to the point that it'll melt the plastic keys. Any views on how you dealt with this? Thanks
Robert Smith says
Wow, I have the chose the same wood design for making my cupboards! So it was instantly attractive to me. But as I read more of the DIY project, it was so interesting to see the images. It is not the tools but your creativity, of how you applied the basic tools to make such a creative piece of art. Thanks for sharing
Bestiee says
This article is very good & informative.I have gain so much information from this blog.I like your blog.Thanks for the post.
Tomika says
I've seen this type of project done before, but never with the glow powder. I think this is a fantastic project and a beautiful end result. Thank you for showing me what could be possible with a little glow.
Dan says
HI Jeremy,
Thank you so much for the directions. I've watched tons of videos on youtube about making these tables and never have seen a person seal like you do, they always do a pour with a form all the way around the table. I like this option as epoxy is expensive. I have been having lots of issues with epoxy leaking out.
Does the underside of the table, especially where the bead of sealing silicone was placed, need quite a lot of touch up? I am worried about there being a portion that needs filled where the silicone was.
Secondly, how thick of a layer of vaseline do you apply? How does it affect the epoxy as it heats up to cure?
Lastly, With the above method of sealing and vaseline, are you able to reuse your forms? Where I live it is very hard and VERY expensive to get melamine, particle board, or MBF. I've use tuck tape, a plastic based tape, and mold release with little success of being able to save the lower pieces.
Many thanks for the tips and advice, I really appreciate it.
Mark says
Great article and information.
Thanks
Bond Corp says
I really found this article informative! All the information provided by you is really helpful for all. By using a tack cloth we can easily remove small dust particles from the surface and make our project dust-free. Thank you for sharing! Keep posting!
Ethan Frank says
Great ideas and brilliant advises. Thanks for this!
Emma austin says
great idea! your information is very helpful.Thanks for sharing this article
Adelina Addy says
Thankyou!!! i was looking for directions on the glowing epoxy for ages
Crystal says
This helps alot! im going for a plus sign instead of 1 horizontal strip
Shin Thopher says
Wow, really helpful! Thanks for sharing quick creation tips here.
Pahjo Designs says
You are very welcome, Shin!
Isabella says
My first time trying this!! Thankyou. Helped.
Pahjo Designs says
Good Luck, Isabella!