LED Epoxy Resin River Table

In this video tutorial, I show you how to make an LED Epoxy Resin River Table with Sinker Cypress.  This LED river table has an epoxy resin river, blue fire glass, LED lights, and sits on industrial hairpin legs.



FREE DIY PLANS – Grab Your Free DIY Plans for this Project at the bottom of this post.



I received a text from my friends at Riverside Lumber in New Orleans about some unique Sinker Cypress they received.  Immediately, I went over there the same day because Sinker Cypress sells very quickly.  I love working with Sinker Cypress because it is such a beautiful wood with lots of history.  Check out more about Sinker Cypress here.

So, I purchased a piece of Sinker Cypress that was about 8 feet in length and 17 inches wide.  The picture below is a picture of the wood after I cut it in half.

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The Sinker Cypress sat in my shop for 3 months and I finally decided to use it to make an LED Epoxy Resin River Table.


Tools I Used

Table Top Epoxy Resin
Fire Glass
HairPin Table Legs
Stanley Block Plane
Trim Router
1/4″ Roundover Bit
Ryobi Circular Saw
Straight Edge for Saw
Dewalt Planer
Spray Adhesive with Activator
Hot Glue Gun
WEN Electric Hand Plane
LED Lights
Porter Cable Heat Gun
Silicon Caulk
Dovetail Clamps
Johnson Paste Wax
Milwaukee Orbital Sander
Table Saw
Miter Saw
Saw Horses
Melamine Board: Big Box Store
Lie Nielsen Low Angle Jack Plane




Wood Preparation

I normally start my woodworking projects with preparing the wood and this project is no different.  Sinker Cypress is a beautiful wood species, but it is a little soft and requires special care during the preparation process.

First, I cut the 8 foot piece of sinker cypress at 50″ long to form the length of the epoxy resin table.  I used my straight edge and circular saw to make the cut.  The LED river table will be 48″ long, but I left an extra inch on both ends to square the edges in a later step.

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Straight Sides

Next, I ripped the wood with my bandsaw.  Why did I use my bandsaw and not my table saw?  Good Question.  The Sinker Cypress did not have a straight side to ride along the fence of the table saw.

Obviously, it is not safe to run a piece of wood this heavy through a table saw without a fence or sled to keep the wood from moving.  Since I don’t have a jointer, so I couldn’t get a straight side.  I do have a jointer jig, but the piece of wood was a bit too wide for my jointer jig. I  had to cut it in half on my bandsaw to prepare the sinker cypress to go on the jointer jig.

I didn’t care if the cut was not exactly straight because I needed to trim off some of the wood anyway.  Good thing I didn’t care because it was definitely not straight.

Then, I took the two pieces of sinker cypress and straightened out one side using my jointer jig with dovetail clamps.  I really love this jointer jig because it really gets the sides very straight.


Remove Bark

First, I used a few of my general use chisels to remove the loose bark from each piece of sinker cypress.  This cleans up the live edge for the LED table.  Ultimately, I wanted to maintain the ‘live edge’ look of each piece, so I was careful during this process.

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Flatten Surface

The sinker cypress was relatively flat because it was planed by my hardwood dealer; however, it was still a bit rough.  I ran each piece through my planer a few times.  I removed 1/64″ on each pass.

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Next, I sanded each piece of sinker cypress with my orbital sander.  I sanded the faces, sides, and smoothed out the live edge where I removed the bark.  I started with 120 grit, 150 grit, and finally 220 grit.

Quick Tip:  For a very smooth finish, wipe down the wood with a damp cloth and sand again with your highest grit.  As a result, the water lifts the grain a bit and helps remove the excess.


Square Ends

First, I used my miter saw to square each end of the sinker cypress.  Ultimately, it was only necessary to remove about 1/2″ from each side to get it square.  This worked out because I may need to square it again at a later step and I would have 1″ remaining.  Remember, I cut the piece at 50″.

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Melamine Box

The melamine box is a very important step for the LED Epoxy Resin River Table.  Epoxy resin doesn’t adhere to melamine, which makes melamine a perfect material to contain the epoxy resin.  I constructed the melamine box to the exact dimensions of the table in order to prevent the epoxy resin from seeping on the sides and ends.

The bottom of the melamine box needed 2 pieces of melamine because I didn’t have a piece wide enough.  I glued the 2 pieces together using spray adhesive with activator.  This will create a strong enough adhesion to hold together.

Ultimately, the sides/ends of the melamine box would provide the necessary stability.

The melamine box bottom was 20″ wide, 49″ long.  I cut the sides at the same length as the bottom and they were 2 7/8″ high (wood is 2″ thick, melamine 3/4″ thick).

Next, I attached the sides with screws after drilling a pilot hole.

I placed the sinker cypress pieces on the bottom and measured the ends to get an exact measurement.  The ends were 21.5″ wide.

Quick Tip:  Tape measures are great, but use the board itself for a more accurate measurement.



Seal Melamine Box

I used my hot glue gun to seal the melamine box on the sides and corners for the LED Epoxy Resin River Table.  Next, I put a generous coat of Johnson Paste Wax on the bottom, sides, and top of box where the particle board was exposed.  Johnson Paste Wax further prevents the epoxy resin from adhering to places it should not.


Then, I placed the pieces of sinker cypress into the box and sealed around the edges and corners to prevent the epoxy resin from seeping out.

I put down a thin piece of silicon caulk down the seam of the melamine box bottom.  This wasn’t necessary, but I decided to do it anyway.

In case you were wondering, the silicon caulk did not adhere to the seam.  Why?  Because I put the Johnson Paste Wax on the bottom – smh.  I amaze myself at times!  This didn’t hurt anything because the caulk wiped off easily.

Quick Tip:  It is very difficult to prevent the epoxy resin from getting under the wood, but it is worth the effort to prevent it as much as possible.



Epoxy Resin First Pour

Before I mixed the first batch of epoxy resin for the LED Epoxy Resin River Table, I used 6 blocks, 3 2x4s, and 6 f-clamps to hold the sinker cypress in place.  This helps with minimizing the epoxy resin from seeping under the table as you can see in my video.

I’ve worked with epoxy resin on my pecky sinker cypress table project video and my river rock table project, so this isn’t my first rodeo with this material.

Keep in mind, it is so important to follow the instructions precisely regarding mixing and applying the epoxy resin.  This stuff is not cheap and if you think you can skip an unimportant step – think again!

First, I mixed the epoxy resin at a 1:1 ratio (1 part hardener, 1 part resin) at a total of 16 ounces.  Sixteen ounces is sort of my ‘sweet spot’.

This amount is easy to handle.  When the material is first mixed (not whip b/c that causes bubbles) it will turn cloudy.

After a few minutes of mixing/stirring the material it will begin to ‘break’ and become easier to stir.

Next, it will turn more clear and that’s when it is ready to pour.