Epoxy Resin Ocean Table that Glows in the Dark
In this video tutorial, I show you how to make an epoxy resin ocean table that GLOWS in the dark and why this table has special meaning to my family and me.
Why did I Make this Epoxy Resin Ocean Table
My family and I love spending time at the beach. We love the sand, the ocean, the warm sun, and everything a day at the beach has to offer. On second thought, we love everything minus the occasional chain-smoker upwind and the sporadic sibling screaming match over plastic shovels.
As a result, my wife and I purchased a home in Destin, Florida in 2012 and we live there 3 months out of the year. Destin, Florida is only a 3 hour and 30 minute drive from our home in Louisiana and I’ve visited this southern paradise (aka ‘Redneck Riviera’) since I can remember.
Stacey (my wife) has a cricut and she is quite crafty when time permits (Time permits = our kids aren’t calling her name every 3 seconds).
Furthermore, the cricut has yet to find a permanent home despite the fact I bought her the cricut over 1 year ago. As a result, I decided to build a table with storage as a Mother’s Day gift for Stacey.
Ultimately, my goal was to incorporate as many things (places, items, etc.) into this table that I possibly could. In other words, I want this table to make her smile each time she has an opportunity to sit in front of it.
Also, I put a few sea shells, sand dollars, and Mickey Mouse ears on the table. Stacey loves to find seashells, find sand dollars, and anything related to Disney.
Furthermore, the epoxy resin ocean table bottom is comprised of two storage cabinets with 4 drawers each.
In an effort to keep the video at a reasonable length for today’s ever-shrinking attention spans, I decided to make that a separate project. Be on the lookout for that video soon.
Tools & Materials I Used
Below are the tools I used for this epoxy resin ocean table.
- Pro Marine Epoxy Resin (Highly Recommended)
- NOTE Can be used for casting AND top coat.
- Glow Powder
- 3/4″ Steel Rod: Local Home Center
- 16 2x4s @ 8ft long: Local Home Center
- White Pigment Powder
- Transparent Blue Dye
- Sea Creatures Silicone Mold
- Mickey Mouse Silicone Mold
- Butane Torch
- Heat Gun
- Acetone (Used for Resin & Black Pipe clean up)
- Measuring Containers
- Resin Stir Sticks
- Rubber Gloves
- Packing Tape
- Tape Gun
- Furniture Wax
- Wood Glue
- Spreader for Glue
- Scraper for Glue
- Glue Bot
- Steel Wire Brush
- Zinsser Sand Additive
- White Chalk Paint
- Light Blue Chalk Paint
- Dark Blue Chalk Paint
- Chalk Paint Brush
- Beige Spray Paint
- Chip Brush
- Purdy Paint Brush
- Worx Multifunction Table
- Dewalt Grinder
- Kutzall Extreme Shaping Disc
- WEN Electric Handheld Planer
- Festool Track Saw TS-75 w/ Track
- Random Orbital Sander – Festool
- Festool Sandpaper (220 Grit)
- Grizzly Table Saw
- Dewalt Trim Router
- 3/4″ Straight Router Bit
- Bessey clamps
- Dewalt Trigger Clamps
- Tape Measure
- Drill/Driver Combo
- Forstner Bit
- Drill Guide
- StoneCoat Countertop Epoxy (Used for Final Top Coat)
Ocean Table Digital Plans
I’m currently working on digital plans for this Ocean Table which will have over 100 pictures and detailed explanations of each step listed below. Leave me your name and email address via the form below and I’ll send you an email as soon as they are ready.
First, I used simple pine 2x4s to make this epoxy resin ocean table top along with the tools and materials listed in the previous section.
In total, I used 16 2x4s @ 8ft long.
I highly recommend to be selective when purchasing 2x4s from your local home center (i.e. big box stores). If I had to guess, at least 25% of the 2x4s at a big box store are severely warped and/or damaged.
Consequently, I save a lot of time during the milling process.
Luckily, the 2x4s were relatively straight and flat. So, I cleaned up each side on my table saw by removing just enough material for a nice, straight edge.
Also, most 2x4s have a slight rounded edge and it’s important to remove this before proceeding to the glue up.
First, I separated them in 2 groups of 8 and glued them together. Also, this is referred to as laminating 2x4s.
Next, I spread the glue across the entire surface to make certain the bond is strong.
Then, I clamped them together using my bar clamps. I didn’t have enough clamps, so I had to use my worx multifunction table.
It’s important to keep the 2x4s as level as possible during the glue up as this saves a ton of time in later steps. I do this by placing clamps on the bottom and top of the wood and slowly tightening each clamp.
Finally, I removed as much of the excess glue as possible with a damp rag.
After the glue dried, I removed the clamps and used my glue scraper to remove the excess glue.
Plane and Glue
Next, I ran each 12″ section through my planer to get a flat surface.
This step is much easier when the laminated 2x4s are as flat as possible during the previous step.
Then, I spread glue and clamped the 2 12″ sections together.
Install Steel Rods
These two pieces of the ocean table was simply too heavy to rely on glue to keep them together. I decided to reinforce the ocean table with 3/4″ square steel rods.
After the glue dried, I removed the clamps and decided which side of the table would be the top.
Ultimately, it didn’t matter because I flattened each side of this epoxy resin ocean table with my planer. I oriented the epoxy resin ocean table so the bottom would be facing up.
Then, I cut the steel rods to 18″ long on my miter saw.
Next, I measured 24″ from each end and used the square steel rod to draw a straight line. I measured 2.5″ from each side along the line and made a mark. These 2 marks from each end of the table marked the starting and stopping point of the channel.
Drill and Route Channel
First, I used my Jig It Drill Guide (Link in Tools List) with a 1″ forstner bit to drill the starting and ending point of each channel. The hole needed to be 1″ wide x 1″ deep and the drill guide helped me drill a perfect vertical hole and control the depth.
Once the 2 holes were drilled to the proper depth, I used my trim router with a 3/4″ straight bit to route the rest of the channel. Next, I clamped down the steel rod to serve as a guide for my trim router.
Then, I removed 1/4″ of material per pass until I reached the desired depth. Additionally, I had to widen the hole by 1/4″ to 1″ because the straight bit was only 3/4″ wide.
After I removed the wood chips and dust, I scraped each steel rod with a wire brush to make the surface more bond-friendly.
Next, I laid the steel rods in the channel and mixed Bondo in small batches to secure the rod.